The $10 challenge

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  • 14 Aug 2011 06:59
    Reply # 675858 on 675130
    Thanks for the kind comment Neil. I will be posting more photos over the next few months as everything comes together. I must say, your boat is looking pretty smart. I look forward to seeing some photo's of her under sail.
    Last modified: 14 Aug 2011 07:01 | Anonymous member
  • 13 Aug 2011 23:16
    Reply # 675645 on 675321
    Deleted user
    Paul Thompson wrote:La Chica has a lot of lockers because each locker is just one shelf. The reasoning behind this is that when at sea you only have to deal with one shelf at the time and any sudden or unexpected lurch cannot result in the contents of more than one shelf being dumped. This is important for me as in my next voyage we (La Chica and I) will be spending around 5 months in the Southern Ocean and the last part of it will be in autumn and winter. This being the case, everything is being built to withstand knock downs and the lockers have to retain their contents under all conditions.

    This brought me to the issue of locker catches. The common finger pull type are not suitable as they can be opened by the locker contents hitting them. Also if the boat lurches at the wrong moment it is very easy to break a finger (which could be a nuisance). Any halfway decent catch costs a fortune here in New Zealand. I was looking at around NZ$40.00 plus the tax (15%) for each catch (push button type) and that was simply unaffordable as I need 58 of them. So I looked at turnbuckles and even they were NZ$19.00 plus the tax. Better but still much to expensive and the ones on offer were ugly and the crossbars could not be relied upon to stay engaged when interesting things happened.

    So I decided to make my own turnbuckles. Turnbuckle catches because they are easy to make, can be operated without risk to your fingers and by adjusting the friction can be set up so that they will not open on their own accord. As I wanted a reasonably attractive unit that also did not damage the locker lids the easy'est and cheapest option of a plywood disk or a suitably cut piece of stainless flat bar did not suite me.

    In the end, I made drawings (you can find them here) and had the pieces laser cut from stainless steel (304, good enough for use inside the boat). Cost per turnbuckle came to NZ$4.60 including the button head machine screw to mount the cross bar. Plus three days to counter sink the holes for the screws and polish (brushed finish). I used 2mm sheet for the base and striker plate and 6mm for the cross bar. An M5 button head socket screw acts as the pivot and also transfers the load to the structure. At the back (inside the locker) is an M5 Nyloc nut that enables one to adjust the friction so as to make the cross bar stay in any position that you may want. There is a thin washer between the base and the cross bar so that the cross bar does not scratch the base or striker plate.


    Complete Turnbuckle


    Some of the lockers

    Those are really nice Paul....any more interior pics?
  • 13 Aug 2011 08:18
    Reply # 675321 on 675130
    La Chica has a lot of lockers because each locker is just one shelf. The reasoning behind this is that when at sea you only have to deal with one shelf at the time and any sudden or unexpected lurch cannot result in the contents of more than one shelf being dumped. This is important for me as in my next voyage we (La Chica and I) will be spending around 5 months in the Southern Ocean and the last part of it will be in autumn and winter. This being the case, everything is being built to withstand knock downs and the lockers have to retain their contents under all conditions.

    This brought me to the issue of locker catches. The common finger pull type are not suitable as they can be opened by the locker contents hitting them. Also if the boat lurches at the wrong moment it is very easy to break a finger (which could be a nuisance). Any halfway decent catch costs a fortune here in New Zealand. I was looking at around NZ$40.00 plus the tax (15%) for each catch (push button type) and that was simply unaffordable as I need 58 of them. So I looked at turnbuckles and even they were NZ$19.00 plus the tax. Better but still much to expensive and the ones on offer were ugly and the crossbars could not be relied upon to stay engaged when interesting things happened.

    So I decided to make my own turnbuckles. Turnbuckle catches because they are easy to make, can be operated without risk to your fingers and by adjusting the friction can be set up so that they will not open on their own accord. As I wanted a reasonably attractive unit that also did not damage the locker lids the easy'est and cheapest option of a plywood disk or a suitably cut piece of stainless flat bar did not suite me.

    In the end, I made drawings (you can find them here) and had the pieces laser cut from stainless steel (304, good enough for use inside the boat). Cost per turnbuckle came to NZ$4.60 including the button head machine screw to mount the cross bar. Plus three days to counter sink the holes for the screws and polish (brushed finish). I used 2mm sheet for the base and striker plate and 6mm for the cross bar. An M5 button head socket screw acts as the pivot and also transfers the load to the structure. At the back (inside the locker) is an M5 Nyloc nut that enables one to adjust the friction so as to make the cross bar stay in any position that you may want. There is a thin washer between the base and the cross bar so that the cross bar does not scratch the base or striker plate.


    Complete Turnbuckle


    Some of the lockers
    Last modified: 13 Aug 2011 08:24 | Anonymous member
  • 13 Aug 2011 01:49
    Message # 675130
    Paul Thompson wrote:David Tyler wrote:
    Kurt Jon Ulmer wrote:
    Robert Groves wrote:I've posted a picture of the Wind Vane that we use on Easy Go ... certainly the most cost effective wind vane around.
    That's inspiring! 
    Challenges me - what's the greatest improvement I can make to our boat, for $10 and time?
    Cheers,
    Kurt
    Your deck seems to be innocent of ventilators, Kurt, except for hatches. My main cabin ventilator is made from scraps of 9mm ply on the dorade principle - make the air go down and then up, before  it goes down into the cabin.  
    My galley and heads vents are high mushrooms. I found the bases in a chandlers in BC, minus their tops, which had got lost. I bought them for $10 each, and made some new tops from GRP, using a plastic food storage container as a mould, and setting in a bolt that would engage with the bases. I fail the challenge, having spent about $15 per vent, but I got two good vents which are much better than the usual low mushrooms at keeping the water out and letting the air in.


    David and Kurt,

    Lets move this to a topic on it's own as it is interesting and has the potentional to develop into a long self sustaining thread we preserve the windvane thread for windvanes. I will post on this topic and the windvanes this evening as I must work on La Chica now (It's Saturday lunchtime here).
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