Thanks for all the fantastic info! I had a realization yesterday after re-reading pjr, Arne's docs, and C and SJ docs for the billionth time. I think I now have a working understanding of how the rig works, how to determine the proper mast position, and how it integrates to my boat effectively.

I have decided I would like to try and avoid going through the hatch unless necessary, and if I have to, not more then a 6 degree forward rake.

I am very interested in the Split cambered junk, because it seems to have a lot less rigging then a Cambered PJR style like Arne does.  The thing I really like about going the route of Arne, is that if I don't like the camber, it would be a lot easier to just convert it to a standard flat PJR rig.

I have also determined that the construction method of the partners and mast step is open to full interpretation, long as the pieces are stout and overly strong.

I finally understand what PJR is trying to communicate! Now I am off to design many different paper variations of the sail plan to determine what rig will work most effectively with the available mast locations. Waiting on my replacement copy of Van Loan's book to compare the rig details with all the others!

A Brief summary of conclusions: (please point out if they are wrong!!!)  

The PJR flat sail and following the PJR directions is a proven, low cost, simple, reliable, and seaworthy system. Any deviations from the PJR flat sail plans will induce issues that need to be solved and require more tweaking, maintenance, rigging, and cost. This is a tried and true proven system, nothing experimental.

PJR Camber sail- This will cost more, require more attention to stresses, more work, has developed a lot since its inception. Can be a seaworthy rig, but requires more fore thought, planning, and might not be as reliable or safe as the flat PJR if one is caught in extremely heavy weather. Pros- Windward performance, quicker then I can paddle a canoe. More power in the sails.

Cambered Split Junk rig- less rigging required then PJR Camber, balanced, seems like a great rig. To be honest, I feel that a properly built PJR Camber and proper split cambered rig may perform very similarly, I am not convinced the split panels provide a drastic boost in performance over a well made non split sail. I don't know, It would be interesting if wind tunnel results existed. I think there are other variables at play such as drag from the mast ect. On the other hand having the split panels seems to make sail construction easier, if you understand how to make the shelf foot jibs, and the round a broad seam mains. I am still confused on the whole S and CJ  sail making procedure, so if some one can link me to some photos, I will probably be able to figure it out. I have to do more research on how people using this rig in the open ocean feel about it. 

You can create camber by force or design into the battens, or you can add camber in the fabric.

I still have to review the van loan work and I still no nothing about the fan sails. More work to do! After I play with and figure out each different variation on the sail plan, I will be able to choose the one that makes the most sense to my boat and needs. 

Happy Holidays!

I don't know where this myth has come from, but Poppy's junk mast was moved forward from the Bermudan position. I've yet to see a two sail Bermudan rig mast that does not have to be replaced further forward.forward.

Merry Christmas,

Cheers, Slieve.

Some suggestions and thoughts....  post a drawing showing the Bermuda rig overlayed with the new junk rig.   There are some nice odrawings of the Colimbia 26 MII cross section that may help people provide more feedback.  I am guessing you are trying to preserve your v berth and prevent having to cut another hole in the deck for the mast.   In any case,  10 degrees may be a lot of rake.  Whereever you decide the mast should endup,  do a quick cardboard mockup and see how it affects your v berth,  including getting in and out and sleeping.   Going through the hatch will eliminate the hatch as a source of light and ventilation... unfortunately most things on a boat are compromises.

Exterior plywood,  sealed in epoxy should work.  Rather than planing it to some angle. maybe cut the hole at the angle of your rake -  for small amounts of rake it is possible that you can cut the hole  straight and cast the partners or use the more traditional wood wedges to get your angle.  

Erik

Hello and thanks for the input!

I have been going through this site digging into all the great content. I am adjusting to the layout and am now figuring out how to navigate more effectively. The more I read on this site, the more open to interpretation building the rig seems to be. I am definitely confident building the partners and mast step are safely DIY doable.  I think the 10 degree rake towards the bow is necessary if I end up going the hatch insert to preserve as much functional space as possible in the V-berth. I still have to figure out the pro's and con's of having the rake. It complicates things in building the partners.

Maybe I can make a flange from several layers of plywood glued and bolted together, and take it to a cabinetry shop and have them plane the bottom layer at a 10degree angel prior to mounting it to the plywood hatch insert.   

If any of you can point me towards the advantages and disadvantages of a raked mast, it would be fantastic. PJR has a very short sparsely detailed section on it.

Has anyone tried to make a wood form mast step, have it about an 1 1/2 in larger in diameter then the mast. Drill a bolt hole to put a mast bolt, rub the wood form with release compound and pour cement about 6 to 8 in deep? I have cemented flag poles into the ground before and they are still holding well. Just musing any how.

Happy Holidays!

I used Yeong style mast step and partners built up using fibreglass in a conversion some time ago. This must be the easiest technique for a mast that is not perpendicular to the deck, or in your case, a sturdy plywood infill in the hatch opening.

When I sold that boat, the new owner took it away on a truck. When he tried to extract the mast, it wouldn't come out and the crane lifted the front of the 3 ton boat off the ground. My mistake: I should have bored an air hole in the step to prevent that vacuum from forming.

As for your question on flat vs camber, that must be one of the most hotly debated subjects in this forum. There are powerful arguments on both sides. Good luck.

Happy winter/summer solstice to all and fair winds for 2016.