Converting Corribee/Coromandel to junk rig -- technical discussion

  • 09 Nov 2024 21:57
    Reply # 13429014 on 13421842
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Anonymous wrote:

    The Corribee has a smallish rudder. This hi-balance JR brings its CE quite close to the JR mast, which again means that the CE will sit close to the boat’s centreline when sailing downwind. This should help the rudder to cope.

    Just an idea.

    Arne

    PS:
    It looks to me that the superstructure of the Mk 2 and 3 are very similar, so I used a Mk 3 version here.

    (Hi-res diagram in Arne's sketches, section 8, photo11)


    Bonjour

    Mingming has bildge keels and a skeg in front of a small rudder rather forward. It has a natural tendency to sail strait....

    There is not a great weather helm, the helm is very light but sailing headwind, the helm has to be pushed windward about 30°, which is enormous and I suppose that the ruddder must be almost stalled !

    It could be interesting to suppress the skeg and to move the rudder to the transom.

    It is diffucult to tack.

    Eric

  • 09 Nov 2024 20:43
    Reply # 13428998 on 13422101
    Anonymous member (Administrator)
    Anonymous wrote:

    I know that Mingming II, a larger boat, has a 200mm mast, but can't find the size of the original Mingming's mast (Eric A will know).

    Mingming mast :

    -diameter at mast head 60 mm

    -diameter at foot 100 mm

    wall thickness at foot : 3mm

    the inside tube seems to have a thickness of 1mm

    Mast lenght : 8,25m

    Partner tube outside diameter 130mm inside diameter 105mm wall thickness 10mm

    Partner's stainlesssteel  reinforcement plat parts thickness 4mm tubing diameter 25mm

    Distance from the center of the bermudian mast support to the middle of the partner 370mm.

    Mingming is a Corribee that has been changed to Junk rig. The mast is in the middle of the forward hatch. The hatch was replaced by a cover and reenforced by a heavy tubing that is fixed to the side of the coachroof. (see photo).

    Roger has a rather conservative sailing but Mingming mast survived to a full capsize (mast down and keels up) bare pool while Mingming was rolled by a rogue wave.

    Mingming mast is chambered (there is an other tube inside the mast at partner level).

    I hope it helps.

    Eric



    12 files
  • 09 Nov 2024 15:28
    Reply # 13428929 on 13421143
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    NOTE FROM WEBMASTER:  This active and useful thread was moved from Buy/Sell forum to Technical forum at the suggestion of a the original poster and another participant.  See separate new thread on Buy/Sell forum re acquiring a mast. Cheers.

  • 23 Oct 2024 16:31
    Reply # 13422517 on 13422357

    I've found this...looks like it could work.  It's 7m tall in total, 3mm wall thickness, tapered starting 2.8 m from the bottom, from 145 to 76mm dia, so would need a small extension according to Arne's sketch, which I think is 7.7m in total. I don't know how the access door would affect strength.  I could weld it to seal it and strengthen that area.

    - Jes

    Jes, it would be a pitty to buy a mast weakened by any holes. Even if welded shut, those areas will be where fatigue appears first.

    It might work for you to directly contact that supplier, and ask them if they would sell you the raw mast - of a production stage, where they did not cut any holes yet. At least, that worked out when I bought the mast for Ilvy. It was cheaper, too.

    Cheers,

    Paul

  • 23 Oct 2024 10:17
    Reply # 13422389 on 13421143
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Jes,
    if you were able to order that pole without the holes in it, it would suddenly fit perfectly. The trick is to install (glass in permanently?) an oversize lower tube first. Then, your mast can be inserted into this in a similar way as the topmast is fitted in Chapter 6b of TCPJR, except for making it removable. If fitted like in the diagram below and with its lower end raised, that 7m pole will be tall enough, and with 2-3 cm to spare.

    Arne



    (full size diagram in section 8 of Arne's sketches)

  • 23 Oct 2024 08:40
    Reply # 13422374 on 13421143

    Any holes in a tube, or anything other than an entire round tube,  is less than optimal for an unstayed mast - fatigue cracks always start and propagate here. I would only use the length above the access door. But at 145mm dia, there's a good chance that it will fit into a 6" x 10 swg (152.4 x 3.2mm) tube, using the top 4 metres as a topmast, instead of timber. 

  • 23 Oct 2024 07:05
    Reply # 13422357 on 13421143

    I've found this...looks like it could work.  It's 7m tall in total, 3mm wall thickness, tapered starting 2.8 m from the bottom, from 145 to 76mm dia, so would need a small extension according to Arne's sketch, which I think is 7.7m in total. I don't know how the access door would affect strength.  I could weld it to seal it and strengthen that area.

    1 file
  • 22 Oct 2024 21:41
    Reply # 13422194 on 13421143
    Anonymous member (Administrator)

    When David Tyler speaks, I listen, in particular about mast scantlings for offshore sailing, where I have no experience to speak of.

    The term Jester Challenge was also thrown in by Jes, and I realise that I should be a little more conservative when suggesting a mast section for this sort of sailing.

    In my Chapter 6b of TCPJR articles, I recommend keeping the wall thickness between 2.5 and 5% of the mast’s diameter. Now I tend to drift towards the lower end if possible. The problem in my world is that I cannot just dream up a mast section, and then have it. I must pick tubes from what is available, so have to compromise.

    The fact is that older British junks from the eighties and nineties had very thin masts, probably with quite thick walls. Some of these masts appeared to hold for over 20 years, and then suddenly snapped due to fatigue. Photos of these early rigs in use clearly show quite some mast bend, even in moderate conditions (photo below). In contrast, the mast of my 2.15 ton IF Ingeborg (Ø150 x 5mm 6082T6) doesn’t appear to bend at all, even when dipping her toerail.

    From a windage perspective, I am not so afraid of increasing the mast diameter with thinner walls. I have had quite stout wooden masts (Ø250mm on my Johanna), and it worked well enough. However, I still try to avoid building taller masts than strictly necessary. Just imagine what that top metre of the mast does to increase whipping as the boat is dancing about in an offshore gale.

    Arne

    ( see last page of JRA-NL 20 or my Member's Album, Photo Section 8-17)

    Last modified: 22 Oct 2024 22:01 | Anonymous member (Administrator)
  • 22 Oct 2024 20:17
    Reply # 13422133 on 13421143

    Hi David, thanks for coming in.  I have been doing some calculations on different sizes of aluminium tube for a hybrid type mast and because of the limitation in wall thickness that I can find online it looks like for a 5m tube I would have to go up to 5"/125mm to get adequate strength.  I would probably prefer a one piece tapered mast but so far haven't found a source for that. I've looked through several street lighting sites and not had much success. Do you have any suggestions?

  • 22 Oct 2024 19:24
    Reply # 13422101 on 13421143

    May I come in on the mast size, Jes?

    My preference for offshore sailing was to go for a larger, thinner wall section, so as to get more stiffness for a given strength. Particularly in tidal overfalls, a mast that whips around is most unpleasant. My last boat before I quit sailing, a 22ft 6in Hunter Duette, Weaverbird, has a 177m dia x 3mm tapered aluminium mast, which didn't look too large, and I was glad of its stiffness in rough going. These tapered sections are a little softer than the 6061T6 of a hybrid mast's tube, so for sufficient strength and stiffness for offshore sailing, you can certainly come down to 152mm dia x 3mm, possibly to 127mm dia x 3mm, but as you mentioned The Jester Challenge, I really wouldn't want 100mm dia of any wall thickness. Dirty weather in mid-ocean causes one to have enough to worry about without the mast behaving like a fishing rod!

    I know that Mingming II, a larger boat, has a 200mm mast, but can't find the size of the original Mingming's mast (Eric A will know).

    Last modified: 22 Oct 2024 19:29 | Anonymous member
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